A millennium ago the Tongans were booted out of Samoa at this grassy headland, but you can expect a warmer welcome at this personable little resort. It's set on a stunning lagoon (no beach, though there is one within strolling distance) and there's a good pool. All fale and villas have gorgeous sea views; cheaper rooms look over a landscaped garden.
Anyone is welcome at the open-air restaurant (mains from ST50) and the fun Ugly Mermaid Bar.