This fantastic treasure is hidden away in an extremely unlikely location amid a hilltop housing estate. Run by the charming Olga Gurskaya, who also uses the space to run cookery classes, Kvartira 30 offers some of the most interesting and innovative Russian food in the city: the aubergines marinated in lemon juice and chilli with toasted rye bread were a revelation.
With only five tables, it's a good idea to reserve for the evenings. Don't miss the zefir dessert, a kind of local marshmallow made from blueberries. To find it, it's best to start from Okeansky pr, where the entrance to the street is just a staircase through some trees that becomes a residential street. Head up the road and look for the yellow neoclassical building on the left: the restaurant is to the left-hand side of that.