Just 6km northwest of Gheorgheni on the road to Topliţa is the tiny village of Lăzarea (Gyergyószárhegy in Hungarian). The predominantly Hungarian village is dominated by its 16th-century castle, whose walls are crowned with unique sculpted designs. Gábor Bethlen, later to become prince of Transylvania (r 1613–29), was raised within this Renaissance-style citadel. When we passed through, the castle doors were closed indefinitely and renovations were hotly expected.