Below the fortifications, near the bridge to Spain, this low-key place serves a wallet-friendly 'pilgrim's lunch' (€7) every weekday to recharge the batteries of Santiago-bound pilgrims. There's a lovely umbrella-shaded cobblestone terrace, gazing across fields towards the mountains and spires of Galicia. Occasional trains rumble by out front.
By night it's a tapas bar, with wines by the glass from €1.60.