Hotel Residencial Princesa do Gilão

Right on the river, this late-20th-century hotel has tight but neat rooms with lemon-yellow walls and plain-tiled floors brightened by colourful fabrics. Ask for a room on the river side with a small balcony, as the views are worth waking up to. Breakfast is served at the in-house bar/cafe, which has a pavement terrace. Staff are terrifically helpful.