The 'Northern Star' seats 145 at formally laid, tightly packed tables, onto which waitresses plonk the mainstays of Madeiran cuisine such as espada (scabbardfish) with banana, espetada (grilled beef skewers) and marinated pork. If you've had your fill of regional cuisine, there are also decent pizzas and house specials.
The cosy bar is the place to while away a chilling northern night if lingering longer.