Albergaria Vila Lido

Footsteps from the beach and fortress, this sturdy white, blue-trimmed, converted 19th-century mansion has superwelcoming hosts and bright rooms, some of which have terracotta-tiled balconies and sea views. There's a small, grassy garden with sunloungers and a fountain; breakfast is served on the terrace overlooking the Atlantic or in the chestnut-beamed dining room.