Happening Traça is tucked in a 17th-century building that once housed a pharmacy. Its retro-cool interior nods to its rustic Portuguese roots in the form of azulejos, wood panelling and mounted stag antlers. It's big on soul food, with particularly outstanding meaty picks: T-bone steaks, slow-roast kid goat, confit of veal shank with vodka and the like.
Terrace seats are gold dust when it’s sunny.