For a snapshot of local life and a bite to eat, nip into Boavista's revamped Mercado Bom Sucesso. A complete architectural overhaul has brought this late 1940s market hall bang up to date. Now bright, modern and flooded with daylight, the striking curved edifice harbours a fresh produce market, a food court, cafes and the slick design hotel, Hotel da Música.
The fresh produce market does a brisk trade in fish and shellfish, meat, fruit and vegetables and flowers from 10am to 8pm Monday to Saturday.
Gastronomes are in their element in the food court, which is perfect grazing territory, with stands selling everything from fresh sushi to piadine (Italian flat-bread sandwiches), tapas, ice cream and Portuguese sparkling wine. The Traveller Café is a good pit stop for freshly pressed juices and smoothies or coffee and pastries. Try O Forno do Leitão for roast suckling pig sandwiches. Or if you're looking for edible gifts to take home, stop by Sabores e Tradição, which stocks gourmet products from the Trás-os-Montes, such as cheese, olive oil and honey.
The market also has a cultural slant, with events from live music to free monthly workshops (in Portuguese) ranging from cookery demos to gardening for kids.