Restaurante Ribeiro Frio

This cosy pre- or post-levada-hike refuge is good for a full-blown, calorie-replacing meal, or coffee and cakes while you wait for the bus back to Funchal. With the trout farm almost opposite, it's no surprise that the rare freshwater fish dominates the menu. The wood-rich interior is warmed by cast-iron stoves, a welcome sight after a day on a damp levada.