At the turn off on the ER103 for Pico do Arieiro, this rustic mountain refuge plates up Portuguese and Madeiran favourites in a welcoming, slightly old-fashioned dining room. It's just the place to reheat after a hike in the hills with a few shots of poncha (local sugar-cane spirit drink) and a bowl of hearty and warming Madeiran tomato soup.
Easily reachable from Funchal by car.