Exquisite Valverde feels like a boutique town house (which it once was). Its facade is not showy, but once inside, an urban oasis of discerning design and personalised service is subtly unveiled. Reached by black-dominated, hushed hallways, the 25 rooms elicit style, form and function, and are awash in cultured European art and unique mid-century-modern pieces.
The 24-sq-metre pool (really a large hot tub) beckons after a long day of sightseeing, or you can sit back with a captivating book in the intimate reading lounge. You don't even need to leave for dinner – Cabo Verdean chef Carla Sousa comes with an impressive pedigree, and there's live jazz, bossa nova and fado most nights to accompany her modern Portuguese menu.