Up the stairs behind a not-very-triumphant facade lies this surprising treasure trove of 19th-century Portuguese bric-a-brac (seashell nightlights, ceramic taxidermy, gaudy mirrors), while Diogo Noronha, a former intern at renowned New York restaurant Per Se and one of Lisbon's top upstart chefs, does decidedly delightful things with his charcoal oven. The duck leg? The grilled mussels? The octopus? Perfect.
The restaurant is closed until 2020 due to renovation work in the building.