Igreja de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios

The Douro


One of the country’s most important pilgrimage sites, this twin-towered, 18th-century church has a trim blue-and-white stucco interior with a sky-blue rococo ceiling and a gilded altar. The church, however, is quite overshadowed by the zigzagging monumental stairway that leads up to it. The 600-plus steps are resplendent with azulejos (hand-painted tiles), urns, fountains and statues, adding up to one of the greatest works in Portuguese rococo style.

It’s a dramatic sight at any time, but the action peaks in late summer when thousands of devotees arrive and ascend the steps in search of miracles during the Festa de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios. Most offerings are made at the rear altar where Mother Mary reigns supreme. If you can’t face the climb by foot, a road (turn-off 1km out on the Viseu road) winds up the hill for about 3km before reaching the top.


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