Pensão Gládius

In the square right next to the monastery, friendly older proprietor Dona Eglantina runs this snug but attractive place (one of the 'old world' guesthouses that's independent of 'official' lists). It’s got a vaguely alpine feel, with flower-filled window boxes and four spotless, modern rooms tucked under the eaves. The '80s time warp of a bar below can be fun.