From the school of Melbourne wine bars with fantastic food comes Embla, a no-reservations spot favoured by the hospitality industry and city workers. Wines are unusual in a good way, while seasonal ingredients power the menu. Lesa upstairs is fancier, with set menus from $85 or pre-theatre bites before 6.15pm from $55.
Don't want to fight crowds? Book a set Sunday lunch at Embla, $50 per head.