In the evenings, Mamma Gema trattoria focuses on its downstairs pizzeria. You wander the shop and pick a bottle – hence the name, 'Pizza Between Wines' – and pair it with your pie.
The shredded lamb topping is the strangest (and most popular), but we enjoyed Do Pessali (mozzarella, Parma ham, fresh tomatoes and basil). It functions as a shop as well, if you just want to pick up some bottles, but it's only open at night.