This tented camp is a wonderful escape from the safari circuit. Set on a steep hillside, the seven tents have splendid views of Kilimanjaro and down into the Amboseli ecosystem of southern Kenya. The camp's decor is inspired by Hemingway's love for a classic safari camp, and the sense of luxury and blissful isolation make this a fabulous experience.
From the sundowner spot above the camp, the views are some of the best in Northern Tanzania, taking in Kilimanjaro, Mt Meru, Mt Longido, a distant glimpse of the Crater Highlands and numerous Maasai manyattas – pure magic. There's a lovely writing desk with full cognac bottle on one side, and massive outdoor showers enclosed within ochre-walled luxury. Throughout the camp the decor is warm and eclectic, featuring Maasai colours, chandeliers, dhow-wood furnishings and creatively deployed calabashes.
The wildlife here is a little more sparse than elsewhere on the northern safari circuit, but there's an important elephant corridor close by, and lions and other big cats, though elusive, may be seen.
Pick-ups can be arranged from Moshi and elsewhere. If you're driving, Shu'mata Camp can be reached from the Arusha–Namanga highway, 34km away; take the turn-off heading east, 2.3km south of Longido's Kuringe petrol station. After around 26km, you'll come to a gate with a guard. Turn left, then continue a further 7.6km to the camp, which you'll see on a hill away to the right. Ring or email ahead for detailed directions.
The camp offers cheaper packages if you also stay at sister property Hatari Lodge in Arusha National Park.