Popular with locals and discerning diners from Amman, and set in a restored Ottoman house, this restaurant is always worth a visit. Sit indoors by a roaring fire in winter or in the leafy courtyard in summer and sample traditional Jordanian dishes such as mutaffi bethanjan (fried eggplant with sesame). Book ahead for Thursday or Friday nights.
Other popular dishes include fatteh (fried bread with garlic-laced yoghurt and hummus, sometimes with chicken) and sawani (meat or vegetables cooked on trays in a wood-burning oven).