Within the gorgeous Citadel, this 126-room offering from Pestana might be shockingly modern, but its deep commitment to local art helps ease the pain, especially in the beautiful lobby bar, where 600 of Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro's ceramic swallows line the walls as if in midflight. Some 16 rooms, all featuring light hardwood floors and inviting slanted bathtubs, have sea views.
If you don't feel like dealing with the sand, the outdoor pool, reached via a walkway that parallels the original 17th soldier's path, is flanked by a lovely garden area with day beds. The complex features a restaurant, bookshop, art galleries (branded Cidadela Arts District) and museum.