Clinging spectacularly to the edge of a cliff, El Monte Azul offers postcard-perfect views and a good-value menu split between French-leaning meat and seafood and a variety of Thai noodle dishes – the highlight of which is an excellent lionfish in a creamy white-wine, lemon and green-onion sauce. Go at sunset, when a kaleidoscopic flurry of hues melts into the sea.
This is one of the island's most dramatic dining settings. The tricky part is arriving (GPS is not your friend): from town, head south on the main highway for 4km, then head east at the turnoff for La Guazama and follow the signs. You will struggle in a standard car up the last 1km of the steep and rough road – they can come down and fetch you, or you could take a taxi from town (US$30 round-trip). Reservations are suggested and you can sleep here as well.