From NH57, stairs lead through a garish gate up to Wat Phnom Yat, a psychedelic temple centred on an ancient po (sacred fig) tree. A 27m Buddha looms over the top of the staircase, while a path leads up to the colourful temple and the large golden stupas at the top of the hill.
Along the path a life-sized cement tableau shows naked sinners and their punishments: being heaved into a cauldron (the impious), de-tongued (liars) and forced to climb a spiny tree (adulterers). Medieval European triptychs don’t portray a hell that is nearly so scary. The sunrises and sunsets at the top are usually nice enough to take your mind off the fire and brimstone.