Sitting in lush garden grounds with a gilded bell, the Dhammayazika dates from 1196. Set in the south-central end of Bagan on the main road, it has lovely views from its highest terrace. The pentagonal zedi (stupa) is similar to the Shwezigon but with a more unusual design. An outer wall has five gateways.
Dhammayazika Paya suffered serious damage during the 2016 earthquake but is now open again.
Up top, five small temples, each containing a buddha image, encircle the terraces; some bear interior murals added during the Konbaung era.
Watch out for ghosts! Supposedly the stupa’s construction began under a general who died before its completion. His likeness is said to appear in many photos of the site, including a fairly recent one of government officials.
It’s possible, with perseverance, to cycle (or motorbike) the thrilling dirt roads here from Dhammayangyi Pahto, a mile north.