Café Culturel El Ali

This is indeed a cultured hideaway. A converted house with atmospheric wood-beamed ceilings, stained-glass windows and a rooftop terrace, it serves excellent breakfast platters, hot drinks and fruit smoothies in its lovely upstairs salon. At lunch, vielle marmites (meats slow-cooked in terracotta) and other traditional local dishes are enjoyed in the elegant mid-level dining rooms. No alcohol.