The fascinating and often fraught history of Chinese people in Australia is showcased in this wonderful little museum in the heart of Chinatown. Start on level 3, which features displays and artefacts relating to the gold-rush era and the xenophobic White Australia policy. Work your way down to the basement, where there are recreations of the hold of an immigrant boat, a temple and a typical house. Then follow the dragon's tail up to the Dragon Gallery on the ground floor.
The astounding 63m-long Millennium Dragon bends around the building and is the largest processional dragon in the world. In full flight during Chinese New Year, it needs eight people just to hold up its 200kg head and more than 200 to operate it for the whole procession.