There's no doubt that the Inglaterra is a Havana icon: it's the city's oldest hotel, where José Martí once stayed the night. But while the tiled Moorish lobby is still magnificent and the busy El Louvre bar out front a beehive of music and action, the Inglaterra remains a better place to hang out than to stay.
Rooms have been modernized of late, with new beds and scarlet accents, but they're a variable bunch, and some at the back are dark and windowless.