Duque Inn

Cordial but kooky, this budget lodging is spruced up with satin bedspreads and chandeliers. Archaeologist owner Ricardo Conde is eccentric gold, offering free tours. It's a steal for budget travelers and serious trekkers. From the cathedral, take Ilave (direction Cajamarca) five blocks, then turn right into Ayaviri. When you see the endless hill, you may want to splurge on taxis.