The big surprise in regularly bypassed Chiquián is not its gaping lack of restaurants, but this pretty flower-bedizened hotel that might have materialized from Cartagena or some other well-trodden colonial city. Rooms in the bright hacienda-style building are clustered warmly around a gorgeous patio stuffed with plants and statues. They marry modern fixtures (some have jacuzzi tubs) with a pleasant rural feel.
You can arrange the best dinners in town here (guests only), plus there’s a cute little shop in the reception that sells local crafts. Staff are charming and a resident harpist regularly strokes the strings for tired-out trekkers enjoying their dinner.