When a venture is led by the ex-Maaemo owner, you can guess the food will be extraordinary, and it is. The short menu is a mix of pan-European dishes done with a contemporary playfulness that stops short of quirky, care of the Australian chef.
Kolonialen's almost-Mediterrean-feeling dining room and footpath tables bustle with contented Bislett locals day and night. While you'll probably need to book, it feels like somewhere you could drop into once for dinner and come back again the next day for lunch.