A haunt of fly-fishing English aristocracy in the 19th century, the vast, 122-room Fretheim, despite its size, manages to be intimate and welcoming. In the original 1870s building, 17 rooms have been restored to their historic selves, though with full modern comfort, while the American wings are straight-up contemporary luxe.
The hotel will arrange and advise on walking and bike trips. Exertions over, the 3rd-floor bar in the tower serves a great range of beers and is a pleasant place to enjoy the view. For the very best panorama, climb the spiral staircase to the glass-floored eyrie at the top.