Right on Tachupal Tole, this wonderful 15th-century building ticks many boxes. It has eight comfortable, traditional rooms and historic character – though anyone over 6ft might struggle with its low ceilings and tiny bathrooms. There's also an attractive front courtyard in which woodworkers beaver away, and a fine courtyard restaurant-cafe serving pulse-raising Illy coffee. Rates include taxes.
The spacious deluxe room overlooking the square has the best views but also the most street noise. Cheaper back rooms are darker but quieter. Credit cards are accepted.