The Portuguese owner of this charming mountain refuge some 20km from Chefchaouen is a keen environmentalist and rock climber who works with locals arranging treks in Talassemtane National Park. Trails of two hours to two days lead to cooling cascades, rock pools, challenging peaks and rare black pines. The restaurant has breathtaking views, but the food is a disappointment.
Call ahead if you're visiting just for a meal (around Dh120).