This incomparable urban park is just 15 minutes west of the main plaza, but it’s another world. Tropical and subtropical foliage is thick and aflutter with birds and butterflies. The Río Cupatitzio bubbles over boulders, cascades down waterfalls and spreads into wide, crystalline pools. Cobbled paths (labeled 'Recorrido Principal') follow the riverbanks to the river's source at the icy and gin-clear Rodilla del Diablo pool.
The main entrance to the 458-hectare gardens is where Calles Independencia and Culver City meet (though you can also enter at the western end of Calzada Rodilla del Diablo). There are a few fruit stands and taquerías inside, and there’s even a trout farm where you can net your own catch.