This heavenly place to flop down for refueling is living proof that no other country does atmospheric colonial cafes quite as well as Mexico. La Surtidora's cafe-cum-deli has been knocking out desayunos (breakfasts), comidas (lunch) and cenas (suppers) on Plaza Grande since 1916. The enchiladas, cakes, balletic waitstaff and home-roasted coffee can all be recommended. And did we mention the freshly pressed juice?
For dinner try the sopa tarasca (a rich bean soup with cream, dried chili and bits of crisp tortilla) and the show-stopping chamorro Santa Clara (a slow-cooked pig's trotter).