Morelian and Michoacán pride oozes from the kitchen at Los Mirasoles, where you'll dine in a fine Unesco-quality house bedecked (among other quirks) with a copy of Las Tarascas fountain. The food is doused in regional flavors. Try the chiles capones (seedless chilies stuffed with cheese) and atápakua de huachinango (fish in a mole-like sauce).
The latter was the dish served in Paris in 2005 during Mexico's bid to have its cuisine listed as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by Unesco (realized in 2010). The wine cellar stocks some 250 vintages.