La Vaquita Negra del Portal

On the northwest corner of the arcades, smoked hams and huge green-and-red sausages hanging over the deli counter signal first-rate tortas. Try a messy toluqueña (red pork chorizo sausage, white cheese, cream, tomato and salsa verde), and don’t forget to garnish your heaped sandwich with spicy pickled peppers and onions, as they have done here since 1943.