Run by the larger-than-life, traditionally dressed Nelly Córdova, this delightful open-air restaurant is located near the archaeological site (ask to cut through the site itself). It is a basic but fun spot and specializes in rekindling half-forgotten traditional Tabasco dishes, including some from the Maya period. These include thick chocolate moles, turkey stew and bananas stuffed with beans and pork.
Everything is cooked on open wood fires and served in clay bowls. Oh, and roll up your sleeves because there's no cutlery, so you can ignore everything your mother ever said about eating with your fingers.
