Run by a longtime Canadian expat, this laid-back fruit tree–filled compound has simple, but very pleasant cabañas, some with bathrooms. All have mosquito netting, fans and screens, and shaded sitting areas. Breakfast is M$50 and José even makes organic coffee (M$20). Go 800m southeast from the lighthouse, then follow the signs (inland).
José knows a lot about the area. He also rents canoes (M$100) so that you can paddle through the gorgeous mangroves of Estero Prieto, accessed from the bottom of his garden.