It might smell more like a blacksmith’s forge than a restaurant, but don’t be put off. A dip inside the charcoal-y interior of this city institution is practically obligatory to anyone with more than a faint curiosity about Oaxacan food. The attraction is tlayudas: large, charcoal-grilled tortillas filled with cheese, lettuce and re-fried beans.
Don’t worry, they’re wonderful – just mind you don't get hit in the face by the sparks when they're smoldering on the grill.