In Xochimilco, the ecotourism center Michmani arranges stays at La Llorona Cihuacoatl campground, which sits on a peaceful off-grid chinampa (Aztec garden). The center rents out tents, but you’ll have to bring a sleeping bag, or you can stay in a tiny rustic cabin with two beds. Also available are barbecue grills and temascals (steam baths; M$250).
To get here, go to metro General Anaya and exit the station on the east side of Calzada de Tlalpan, then walk 50m north to catch a ‘Tláhuac Paradero’ pesero. Get off at the Embarcadero Cuemanco entrance and walk about 1km to Michmani, just beyond the embarcadero. From there a boat will take you to La Llorona.