Historic Concubine Lane, between Jln Bandar Timah and Jln Bijeh Timah, is elbow to elbow with visitors, but it's worth squeezing through for a bowl of tau fu fah (hot bean-curd pudding, topped with sugar, ginger and black sesame) at this hole-in-the-wall canteen. Hours vary – because when the pudding's gone, it's gone.