Set at 1585m, homey Luwawa sits in a clearing of pine trees, its manicured gardens spilling with colourful flowers and morning mist. There are seven chalets and cottages, perfect for families (as they sleep up to five), with bunks, bathrooms, self-catering facilities and swallow-you-up four-posters, as well as more affordable rooms, dorms and a shaded camping area.
The centrepiece lounge is dominated by the impressive baobab-inspired fireplace, crackling from dawn until late at night, while outside is a veranda where you can take breakfast and soak up the gorgeous view of the forests and nearby lake. The lodge's organic food should also be credited. From the ridgeback dogs that greet you on arrival to the warm service and myriad activities offered by owner George and staff, Luwawa Forest Lodge is a rare treat.
Activities on offer include guided mountain biking on solid hardtail bikes; abseiling and rock climbing with an experienced instructor; birdwatching, horse riding and fishing; and various hiking trails (there's a booklet in your room with suggested one- to five-hour hikes on well-marked trails through montane forest).