Run by the excellent Central African Wilderness Safaris, Malawi's premier safari operator, Mvuu sits on the river in the realm of myriad hippos and crocs. The camp comprises a main restaurant building and, nearby, scattered chalets with cosy interiors, step-in mozzie nets, comfy beds, immaculate linen and stone-walled bathrooms.
By night, prepare to walk past warthogs to your quarters, hear lumbering hippos passing your door, or wake to a bull elephant grazing on fallen figs next to your window. There's also a small campsite with spotless ablution blocks and self-catering facilities. Dinner is communal and the food hearty in the open-plan, thatched restaurant; campers can join meals for US$18 to US$25, as well as the wildlife walks (US$25), drives and boat trips (US$35).