To really enter the local scene in all its shadiness, attend the gem dealers’ party starting at 1am every Friday night at Color Line’s adjacent bar, known as Al2O3 (the formula for sapphire, naturally). This is only for a particular kind of traveller and is a long way from respectability – think the bar scene in the first Star Wars movie, without the aliens.
We suggest you check earlier in the day with Color Line to make sure it's going ahead. Park nearby or get someone to pick you up.