Of the three terrace restaurants by the water at Kaneo, this one is the best – the atmosphere is right, the food is fantastic and the service professional. The traditional menu has had a facelift; truffle oil accompanies the potatoes, trout is both fresh and smoked, courgettes are stuffed with aromatic herbs and rice. There are good local wines, and it also serves a breakfast of croissants and cheese.
Letna Bavča virtually sits in the shadow of the Church of Sveti Jovan at Kaneo and it makes a great pit stop before or after a visit; there's even a small ramp where you can enter the water if you're desperate for a dip (though be warned, this is still a restaurant – not a beach-and-bikini bar).