Skopje's Čaršija is still home to a couple of ans – ancient Ottoman inns, similar to desert caravanserai (inns) – and the Kapan An houses this restaurant. Try butter-soft sarma (stuffed cabbage leaves) or roasted pork ribs and observe history echoing through the sumptuous central courtyard, where Pivnica's partially covered patio offers a tranquil bolthole.
The only downside is that it's famously tricky to find (it's through an archway off the busy little square in the heart of Čaršija, where the kebab restaurants are concentrated). When you get to the square, look for signs pointing to 'Kapan An'. Serves breakfast until 1pm.
