Simplicity, character and a great welcome make Le Four à Pain special. Rooms, in two adorable Creole-style cottages, are light and fresh with contemporary decor, and have their own entrance. You're in a superb setting, with fine mature trees that shade a wonderfully quiet tropical garden. The coup de grâce is the lovely pool – pure bliss after a bout of sightseeing.
Don't miss out on the luscious dinners (€30) on certain evenings; you'll be guaranteed to sample palm-heart salad – the owner is a major producer in the south. It's off the main road.