The 1st-floor balcony here is the place to pass an afternoon with a nargileh (water pipe) and survey the chaos of the downtown area below, though competition for seats is fierce. You won’t see any local women here but it’s well accustomed to foreign tourists.
To find it, look for the flags of the world on the main facade; the entrance is down the side alley. Also known as the Eco-Tourism Café.