Below Musashi Mitake-jinja, towards the back end of the village, this former pilgrims' inn brims with bric-a-brac and history – it's been in the same family for 17 generations. Rooms and the verandah have excellent views, and the friendly English-speaking owners are a delight.
Meals are great, and you can also arrange to take a dawn hike to a stand under a waterfall, an ascetic practice known as takigyō.