Ōkuma Shōkai

Ueno & Yanesen

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Sukajan are silken bomber jackets boldly embroidered, usually with traditional motifs such as cherry blossoms or cranes. They were originally created as souvenirs for American GIs during the Allied Occupation. Several shops in Ameya-yokochō sell them, but Ōkuma Shōkai, whose jackets are made in Japan, is our pick. Look for the awning with 'Art Jaket Okuma' written in English.

Unpadded, off-the-rack jackets start at around ¥5000; more substantial pieces with intricate embroidery can cost anywhere from ¥25,000 to ¥60,000. Ask about customisations and made-to-order designs.

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Nearby Ueno & Yanesen attractions

1. Ameya-yokochō

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One of Tokyo's few remaining open-air markets, Ameya-yokochō got its start as a black market, post-WWII, when American goods (which included ameya – candy…

2. Shitamachi Museum

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This small museum recreates life in the plebeian quarters of Tokyo during the Meiji and Taishō periods (1868–1926), before the city was twice destroyed by…

3. Saigō Takamori Statue

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Near the southern entrance to Ueno-kōen is this unconventional statue of a samurai walking his dog. Saigō Takamori started out supporting the Meiji…

4. Shinobazu-ike

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A key feature of Ueno-kōen is this large, natural pond, much of which is completely covered with giant lotuses that bloom in summer. Go bird- and botany…

5. Kiyōmizu Kannon-dō

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Kiyōmizu Kannon-dō is one of Tokyo's oldest structures: established in 1631 and in its present position since 1694, it has survived every disaster that…

6. Benten-dō

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Take a stroll down the causeway leading to the island on which Benten-dō stands. The temple is dedicated to Benzaiten, the Buddhist goddess of the arts,…

7. Gojōten-jinja

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This Inari shrine inside Ueno-kōen is most noteworthy for its photogenic succession of torii gates, which form a vermilion tunnel. This feature is typical…

8. Yokoyama Taikan Memorial Hall

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Early-20th-century artist Yokoyama Taikan was one of the masters of modern nihonga (Japanese-style painting). Inside his former residence, a traditional…